Veiled Chameleon Care Guide

Charismatic and Colorful Veiled Chameleons!

Veiled chameleons are unique looking lizards from the Middle East. Native to Saudi Arabia and Yemen, veiled chameleons spend their days hanging out in the trees. Most people know chameleons for their ability to change color, but did you know they don’t do it just for camouflage? More commonly, they change their color to communicate and express their emotions- if they’re nervous, content, or feeling a little feisty.

Veiled chameleon species profile

Experience level: Advanced.

Size: Veiled chameleons grow up to 24" (60cm) from snout to tail tip, with females being slightly smaller than males.

Lifespan: Chameleons live for approximately 5 to 7 years.

Diet: While all chameleons are primarily insectivores, meaning their diet consists primarily of live insects, veiled chameleons also require a small amount of vegetables/vegetation.

Temperament: While veiled chameleons may tolerate mild handling by their owners, they are not fond of being handled in general and are considered more so to be “decorative” pets best suited for observation rather than direct interaction.

Social behavior: Must be housed alone. Attempting to cohabitate veiled chameleons can result in stress or injury due to aggression

Note: Veiled chameleons are highly sensitive to their environment. Success with this species requires precise temperature control, humidity regulation, and UVB lighting, along with limited physical interaction.

Setting up your veiled chameleon habitat

Veiled chameleons are arboreal reptiles that need a tall, well-ventilated enclosure filled with vertical climbing structures. They are sensitive to stagnant air, fluctuating temperatures, and improper humidity, so attention to setup is essential.

Enclosure size and ventilation

Choose a screened or acrylic enclosure with strong airflow. Avoid fully glass tanks, which trap heat and humidity and may contribute to respiratory illness
The minimum enclosure size for an adult is 24 x 24 x 48 inches, though larger is recommended for long-term health
Cover the enclosure floor with reptile carpet or clean paper towels. Avoid soil, moss, or loose particulate substrates, which can cause impaction if ingested
Spot clean daily and deep clean every two weeks to maintain hygiene.

Climbing structures and décor

Use branches, vines, and live or artificial plants to create a dense, climbable environment
Branches should be slightly larger than your chameleon’s foot span for a secure grip
Arrange climbing elements so that no perches are within 8 inches of the basking bulb, to prevent accidental burns
Provide multiple elevated hiding spots throughout the enclosure for security and shade

A cluttered vertical layout is key. Chameleons prefer dense foliage that allows them to climb and hide comfortably.

Temperature and humidity

Veiled chameleons require a vertical temperature gradient, with warmer air near the top of the enclosure and cooler air near the bottom. Place digital thermometers at both ends and a hygrometer at mid-height to monitor conditions.

Zone	Temperature
Cool zone (bottom)	70 to 80°F (21 to 27°C)
Basking area (top)	85 to 95°F (29 to 38°C)
Night	65 to 70°F (18 to 21°C)
Humidity	50 to 80 percent

Mist the enclosure at least twice per day to maintain humidity and provide drinking opportunities. For best results, use an automatic misting or fogging system along with manual misting to simulate morning and evening moisture.

Lighting and UVB exposure

Install a low-intensity UVB fluorescent bulb to allow vitamin D3 synthesis and prevent metabolic bone disease
Mount the UVB light above the mesh lid on the warm side of the enclosure
Provide a 12-hour light and dark cycle using an automatic timer
Supplement with a ceramic heat emitter or low-wattage basking bulb to maintain appropriate daytime temperatures
Do not use “hot rocks” or under-tank heaters, as these are not safe or effective for chameleons

Consistent UVB exposure and thermal gradients are vital for calcium absorption, digestion, and immune health. For more information, consult PetSmart's "Reptile & Amphibian Heating & Lighting" and "Setting Up a Reptile or Amphibian Habitat" Care Guides.

Care and feeding for your veiled chameleon

Veiled chameleons are primarily insectivores, but unlike other chameleon species, they also benefit from occasional plant matter. A balanced diet should include gut-loaded insects, calcium supplementation, and small amounts of leafy greens.

Insects

Offer live prey that is no wider than your chameleon’s head:

Gut-loaded crickets
Silkworms
Dubia roaches
Mealworms
Superworms
Waxworms (as treats only, due to high fat content)

Veiled chameleon feeding schedule:

Juveniles (under 12 months): Feed 1 to 2 times per day
Adults: Feed every other day

Remove uneaten prey within 30 minutes to reduce stress and prevent injury.

Veiled chameleon supplements

To support healthy bone development and prevent nutritional deficiencies, dust feeder insects with supplements according to the following schedule:

Calcium with vitamin D3
4 to 5 times per week (juveniles)
2 to 3 times per week (adults)
Reptile multivitamin
Once per week (juveniles)
Twice per month (adults)

Always follow your veterinarian’s guidance on specific products and dosing.

Vegetation

Offer a shallow bowl of washed, finely chopped leafy greens or edible plants such as hibiscus and ficus leaves. While these are not your chameleon’s primary food source, they may nibble on plant matter when interested.

Replace uneaten greens after 4 hours
Good options include collard greens, mustard greens, and pesticide-free flowers

Hydration

Veiled chameleons do not drink from standing water bowls. They hydrate by licking water droplets from surfaces after misting. To meet their hydration needs:

Mist the enclosure at least twice daily, targeting leaves, branches, and enclosure walls
Consider using a dripper system, which mimics natural dew and provides a consistent water source. This can be as simple as a cup with a pinhole and an ice cube inside, allowing water to drip slowly throughout the day

Proper hydration is closely linked to humidity and misting routines. Dry environments or irregular misting can lead to dehydration and organ stress.

What does “gut-loaded” mean?

Gut-loading is the process of feeding insects a nutritious diet before offering them to your pet. This ensures the prey itself is rich in vitamins and minerals, improving the overall value of your chameleon’s diet.

Feeding safety

Never feed wild-caught insects. These may carry pesticides or parasites
Observe feeding behavior closely. A sudden loss of appetite may indicate illness or improper habitat conditions
If your chameleon refuses food for more than one week, consult a reptile veterinarian

When to see a vet

In addition to regularly scheduled appointments, contact your reptile veterinarian if you notice the following signs:

hiding more than usual, or lying at the bottom of terrarium
eating or drinking less; weight loss
swollen joints or reluctance to move
swollen/closed eyes or discharge from the eyes, nose or mouth
shedding problems; discolored skin
runny droppings for more than two days
decreased frequency of droppings
new or sudden missing toenails
For females- difficulty laying an egg AKA egg binding

Go to “find a vet” on arav.org for help finding a reptile veterinarian in your area.

NOTE: Most, if not all, reptiles carry Salmonella bacteria in their intestinal tract and intermittently or continuously shed these bacteria in their feces, so they are unsuitable pets for very young children and those with compromised immune systems. Good hygiene must always be practiced around all reptiles, and hands should be washed before and after interacting with reptiles.

SHOPPING CHECKLIST

Tall, well-ventilated terrarium-style or screened enclosure sized about 16 x 16 x 30" or larger for a juvenile chameleon (under 8mo old)
Adults need larger enclosures that are at minimum 24”x24”x48” (61x61x122cm)
Screened lid, if applicable
UVB bulb and fixture
Day basking bulb and fixtures
Habitat thermometers (2) and a hygrometer
Spray bottle, mister or automatic fogger
Dripper and shallow dish
Reptile carpet or reptile-safe substrate
Branches/plants
Food dish
Crickets, dubia roaches, superworms and hornworms
Calcium powder
Multivitamin powder

FAQs

Do veiled chameleons like to be handled?
No. Veiled chameleons are solitary and easily stressed by physical interaction. While some individuals may tolerate brief handling, these reptiles are best suited for observation. Frequent handling can lead to defensive behavior and health issues over time.

Why is my veiled chameleon changing colors?
Color change in veiled chameleons is usually a response to temperature, mood, or environment. A calm chameleon may appear green or light brown, while a stressed or defensive chameleon may display darker or more vibrant colors. If your chameleon remains dark for long periods, check your temperature and humidity levels.

How often should I mist the enclosure?
Veiled chameleons need high humidity and regular access to water droplets for drinking. Mist the enclosure at least twice per day, targeting leaves, branches, and the enclosure walls. An automatic misting system or dripper can help maintain consistency.

Can veiled chameleons drink from a water bowl?
No. Veiled chameleons do not recognize standing water as a drinking source. They hydrate by licking droplets off surfaces, which is why misting and drip systems are essential to their care.

What kind of enclosure is best?
A tall, well-ventilated screened or acrylic enclosure is ideal. Avoid full-glass habitats, which can trap heat and humidity and increase the risk of respiratory illness. Enclosures should include vertical climbing space, hiding areas, and a secure lid.

Do veiled chameleons need UVB light?
Yes. UVB lighting is essential for calcium metabolism and bone health. Without proper UVB exposure, your chameleon is at risk of developing metabolic bone disease. Use a low-intensity UVB bulb and follow a consistent 12-hour light and dark cycle.

How can I tell if my chameleon is dehydrated?
Signs of dehydration include sunken eyes, decreased appetite, dry or wrinkled skin, and reduced activity. Mist the enclosure more frequently and ensure the temperature and humidity are within proper ranges. Consult a veterinarian if symptoms persist.

Can I keep two veiled chameleons together?
No. Veiled chameleons are territorial and must be housed individually. Attempting to cohabitate them may lead to stress, injury, or death due to fighting or dominance behavior.

Ready to learn more?

This guide is a great starting place, but we encourage you to do more research on the individual species that you are keeping so that you can be as successful as possible!

Related guides: