Regal Jumping Spider Care Guide

Regal jumping spiders (Phidippus regius) are the largest species of jumping spider. Despite being the largest variety, these spiders only grow to be about 1-1.5” in size! These tiny, but mighty spiders are native across North America and the Caribbean. These tiny spiders are very observant, and studies show that they do learn to recognize faces and people. There’s even evidence that jumping spiders might even dream!

Experience: Beginner

Size: Body size about 0.5”, but body with legs extended is about 1-1.5” with females being a little larger than males

Life Span: about 1-2yrs, but some people report their spiders living longer!

Behavior: These spiders can be shy at first, but they’re naturally curious. They love to climb and will often perch to watch the world outside their habitat. With patience and gentle handling, many jumping spiders will tolerate being held. They rarely bite unless they are startled.

Jumping spiders are a great way to get into the spider-keeping hobby. They are interactive, curious, and each individual spider is full of personality! Jumping spiders are solitary animals, so while they won’t want to share space with another spider, they don’t mind sharing their space with you! Let’s jump into caring for your jumping spider.

Setting up your Spider’s new home!

Regal jumping spiders are arboreal, meaning they live and hunt in trees and bushes. To help your spider feel at home, create a habitat that’s taller than it is wide, with plenty of vertical climbing surfaces.

Minimum enclosure size: 4" x 4" x 7"
Larger habitats encouraged: While 4"x4"x7" is the minimum, your spider will eagerly explore a larger setup if you have room. More space means more climbing, more enrichment, and more fun for your spider.

Substrate: Line the base of the enclosure with 1–2 inches of sphagnum moss and/or coconut fiber. Substrate helps maintain humidity, softens falls from missed jumps, and adds natural texture to the space.

Temperature and humidity:

Daytime temp: 75°F to 85°F
Nighttime temp: 70°F to 75°F
Humidity range: 40% to 70%
Use a thermometer and hygrometer to monitor conditions inside the enclosure.

Once the basics are in place, it’s time to decorate! Jumping spiders thrive in customized enclosures that provide both function and fun.

Use sticks, bark, moss, rocks, and real or artificial plants.
Build upward, not wide, to mimic their natural habitat.
Add textured surfaces and hiding spots throughout the space.
Hot glue or magnets work well to secure décor to the walls, just be sure everything is dry before introducing your spider.

Some keepers choose to theme their spider’s home, think mushroom kingdoms, pastel castles, or jungle dens. As long as it’s stable, safe, and offers climbing options and shelter, your spider will enjoy the creativity.

Silk hammocks, not webs: Jumping spiders don’t build traditional webs. Instead, they spin silk hammocks to rest in—often tucking them into corners or between decorations. Your spider may make several hammocks. Avoid disturbing them if you need to reach inside; think of them as cozy beds your spider relies on.

Lighting: Provide 10 to 12 hours of light daily to mimic a natural day-night cycle.

Indirect sunlight near a window works well, but avoid direct sun, which can overheat the enclosure.
A lamp on a timer is a safe alternative. No special bulbs are needed—just consistent, gentle white lighting.

Jumping spiders have excellent vision and rely on their eyes to hunt, so lighting is essential.

Feeding Your Spider

Jumping spiders are active hunters that eat live, moving insects. Good options for adult spiders include:

Gut-loaded juvenile crickets
Fruit flies
Waxworms
Mealworms
Small dubia roaches

Always choose prey that’s smaller than your spider’s body. This helps your spider hunt safely and reduces the risk of injury or digestive issues. Never use wild insects from outside: they may carry pesticides, parasites, or other contaminants that could harm your spider. Stick to food from a pet store or a well-maintained feeder colony.

What does “gut-loaded” mean?

Gut loaded is a term used usually in reference to insects that are fed to other animals (reptiles, amphibians, some fish). When we say a worm has been gut loaded, it means the worm has been feed an intentional diet that would be beneficial to the worm and would increase the overall nutrition and quality of the worm for when it is eventually fed to another animal.

How often should you feed a jumping spider?

It depends on your spider’s age, activity level, and appetite. Most jumping spiders do well being fed every 5-7 days, depending on the size of the previous meal. Overfeeding is a common mistake and can have serious consequences:

Spiders with large abdomens are more likely to fall or miss jumps
A stretched abdomen can rupture if injured
Overfeeding can trigger excess molting in juveniles, which shortens their lifespan and increases the risk of failed molts

Adult spiders no longer molt, but adolescents and young adults still do. Feeding too often can stress their system and lead to complications. Watch the size of your spider’s abdomen, if it looks plump, it’s time to wait.

Feeding tips based on spider personality

Every spider is different. Some are bold hunters. Others are shy or picky.

If your spider seems afraid of certain prey, don’t worry, it might just need a different type or a calmer feeding method.
Some spiders enjoy being tong-fed, while others prefer the thrill of the hunt.
Older or less active spiders may benefit from a shallow feeding dish that keeps prey contained and easy to reach.

Choose a dish with a textured rim (like glued-on moss or a rough plastic edge) so your spider can grip it securely. A stable perch can make all the difference in their confidence during feeding.

Hydrating Your Spider

Jumping spiders usually get most of their hydration from the live insects they eat, but they still need access to clean, fresh water. Regular misting and a safe water source help keep your spider hydrated and support the enclosure’s humidity.

Misting: Lightly mist the walls of the enclosure, not the spider itself. The droplets left behind provide a drinking source and temporarily raise humidity.
Water dish: Use a shallow plastic lid (like one from a water bottle or sports drink) and place a few small rocks inside. This allows your spider to safely reach the water without risk of drowning.
Humidity boost: A water dish also helps regulate moisture levels in the enclosure, especially in drier climates.

Do not mist your spider directly.

Jumping spiders breathe through book lungs, a delicate organ made up of thin, plate-like structures. The book lungs are housed within small openings in the abdomen and consist of a series of haemolymph (essentially, spider blood) filled plate-like structures, arranged similarly to the pages of a book in appearance. If water gets between these “pages,” it can interfere with breathing and may be fatal. Always spray gently onto enclosure surfaces, not the spider.

What is molting and will my spider molt?

If your spider is sub-adult, it may go through one or two final molts before reaching maturity. A mature adult spider will not molt again.

Molting is the natural process where a spider sheds its exoskeleton to grow. This usually happens inside a web hide, where your spider feels safe. During this time, your spider is extremely vulnerable and should not be handled or disturbed.

Do not touch a molting spider
Maintain proper humidity to support hydration during the molt
After molting, your spider will need time to recover and harden before resuming normal activity

As they age, you may notice your spider eating less frequently and that’s okay! Like us, their metabolism slows a little as they age. Older, more senior spiders may have difficulty hunting, and you may need to assist your pet in feeding. For example, you may need to remove the back legs of crickets so they cannot escape easily or kick and injure your senior spider.

Senior spiders may also have difficulty producing silk (web) and might have trouble navigating their enclosure as they don’t have the footing they used to. As that happens you may need to add more textured items, or consider moving you spider into a “reSPIDERment” home that is not as tall, so they don’t need to rely on webbing so much for navigation and have less risk of falling.

When should I contact a veterinarian?

Unfortunately, due to their small size and specialized-level of veterinary care, medical care for jumping spiders is limited. That said, there are still exotics veterinarians who do work with arachnids. Some common health concerns in Jumping Spiders are:

Incomplete Molt:

This is most easily remedied by increasing the humidity in your enclosure to help release the stuck molt. Your spider is incredibly fragile when molting and should not be disturbed during this time. *Note: mature adult jumping spiders do not continue to molt so your spider may never molt in your care*

Parasites and Infections:

Mites and other pests can infest the habitat, causing health issues. Symptoms include visible parasites on the spider or in the habitat, and the spider seeming irritated or restless.

Dehydration:

Jumping spiders can become dehydrated, which can lead to a loss of interest in eating or hunting, and a loss of coordination. One of the best ways to stay ahead of this is ensuring your humidity is correct and your spider has water to drink (See the Hydrating your spider section of this guide.

DKS (Dyskinetic Syndrome):

This is a disorder characterized by jerky movement, poor coordination, and loss of appetite. At this time, there's no known cause or treatment. Unfortunately, this condition is not well understood and is often fatal.

SHOPPING CHECKLIST

What will I need for my jumping spider habitat?

Fine-misting spray bottle
Thermometer and hygrometer (humidity gauge)
Tongs for feeding
Soft brush like a paintbrush for gently guiding your spider around as needed
Tall Terrarium size 4”x4”x7” or larger (we need room to jump and explore!)
Lighting
Bedding/Substrate (coconut fiber, peat moss, sphagnum moss or a combination)
Décor (branches, plants, sticks, rocks, etc.)
Feeder insect options like crickets, wax worms, meal worms or fruit flies depending on the size of your spider.

Ready to learn more?

This guide is a great starting place, but we encourage you to do more research on the individual species that you are keeping so that you can be as successful as possible!

Related guides:

Setting Up a Bioactive habitat
Feeder Insect Care & Setup

FAQs

Do jumping spiders need friends?
No. Jumping spiders are solitary and do not tolerate cohabitation with other spiders. Keeping more than one in the same enclosure can lead to aggression or cannibalism.

How can I tell if my spider is stressed?
Signs of stress include hiding for long periods, refusing food, erratic movements, or losing footing when climbing. Check the humidity, temperature, and enclosure safety.

Can I handle my jumping spider?
Yes, with patience. Some jumping spiders become comfortable with gentle handling over time, especially if you move slowly and let them explore your hands on their terms. Never force handling.

Why won’t my spider eat?
There are several possible reasons:

It’s preparing to molt
It’s still adjusting to a new environment
It’s not hungry yet
Prey may be too large or too active

Is my spider sleeping or hiding?
Jumping spiders often rest in their silk hammocks or hides. As long as the enclosure conditions are good and your spider moves normally when active, this is typical behavior.