Jackson Chameleon Care Guide

That’s No Dinosaur, it’s a Jackson’s Chameleon!

Jackson’s chameleon is a unique lizard native to Kenya and Tanzania. The males grow impressive horns, almost like a triceratops, that they use to defend their territory. Jackson’s chameleons are typically bright green with darker patterning, but like other species of chameleon and other lizards, they able to change their color. Contrary to popular belief, this color change has little to do with camouflage and mostly relates to the animal’s mood (happy, nervous), temperature (if it is too hot or cold), and intent (is it hunting? Looking for a mate? Fending off an intruder?). Interestingly, Jackson’s chameleons do not lay eggs and instead give birth to live young!

Jackson Chameleon species profile

Experience level: Advanced.

Size: Jackson’s chameleons grow up to 15" (39cm) from snout to tail tip

Lifespan: Jackson’s chameleons live for approximately 5 to 10 years.

Diet: While all chameleons are primarily insectivores, meaning their diet consists primarily of live insects, veiled chameleons also require a small amount of vegetables/vegetation.

Temperament: While Jackson’s chameleons may tolerate mild handling by their owners, they are not fond of being handled in general and are considered more so to be “decorative” pets best suited for observation rather than direct interaction. They can also be quite territorial, and are known to be aggressive with other chameleons, and as such should be housed alone.

Social behavior: Solitary. These animals must be housed alone to avoid territorial aggression

Setting up your Jackson Chameleon habitat

Jackson’s chameleons are arboreal, meaning they spend most of their lives in trees or shrubs. Their enclosures must provide ample vertical climbing space, secure perches, and high ventilation. Poor airflow can lead to respiratory issues, especially in humid environments.

Enclosure design

Use a screened enclosure or acrylic terrarium that’s taller than it is wide
Avoid full-glass tanks, which trap moisture and reduce air circulation
Minimum size for a single adult should be at least 24 inches wide by 24 inches deep by 48 inches tall, but we recommend larger if you have the space
Line the bottom with reptile carpet or paper towels for easy cleaning
Do not use moss, soil, bark, or sand as loose substrate as it could be dangerous if your chameleon accidentally eats it

Spot clean daily and deep clean the enclosure every two weeks using reptile-safe disinfectant. Climbing and visual cover Provide a dense network of artificial or live branches and plants for climbing and hiding. Branches should be slightly wider than your chameleon’s grip to promote safe climbing and proper foot health. Secure all décor to avoid collapse during movement.

Avoid placing branches or décor within 8 inches of the heat source
Include both horizontal and diagonal perches throughout the enclosure
Use broad-leafed plants (real or artificial) to provide shade and dripping surfaces

Chameleons feel safest when they have both vertical and visual separation from open spaces. Dense plant cover helps reduce stress and encourages more natural behavior.

Temperature and lighting

Jackson’s chameleons require a vertical temperature gradient with a warm basking zone near the top of the enclosure and a cooler resting zone near the bottom. Place thermometers in cool and warm areas to measure temperature, and one hygrometer to measure humidity.

Zone	Temperature
Cool side (bottom)	70 to 80°F (21 to 27°C)
Basking spot (top)	85 to 95°F (29 to 35°C)
Nighttime	65 to 70°F (18 to 21°C)
Humidity	50 to 80 percent

Lighting

Chameleons require a 12-hour light/dark cycle and UVB fluorescent lighting to absorb calcium. Placing a timer on your lighting makes this very easy to accomplish
Many reptiles and amphibians benefit from having access to UVB lighting. UVB allows the body to synthesize vitamin D3 which is critical for absorption of calcium. Some daylight bulbs will be rated to also provide UVB, and some won’t so it is important to check. Providing low-intensity UVB light over the warm-side of your pet’s habitat is recommended.

Care and Feeding

Jackson’s chameleons are primarily insectivorous, meaning their diet consists almost entirely of live, moving prey. They rely heavily on visual cues to trigger feeding responses, so prey must be actively moving within their enclosure or on branches nearby. Live insect diet Feed a rotating mix of gut-loaded insects, such as:

Crickets
Dubia roaches
Silkworms
Mealworms and superworms (as occasional treats only)
Waxworms (high in fat and best offered sparingly)

Choose feeder insects that are no longer than the width of your chameleon’s head. Large or fast-moving prey can intimidate or injure juveniles and less aggressive feeders.

Juveniles: Feed once or twice per day
Adults: Feed every other day
Remove any uneaten prey after 30 minutes to reduce stress and avoid potential injury

Gut-loading means feeding insects a high-nutrient diet for 24 to 48 hours before offering them. This improves their nutritional value and supports your chameleon’s long-term health.

Supplementation

To prevent metabolic bone disease and related deficiencies, all prey should be dusted with supplements before feeding.

Calcium with vitamin D3:
- Juveniles: 4 to 5 times per week
- Adults: 2 to 3 times per week
Reptile multivitamin:
- Juveniles: once per week
- Adults: twice per month
- Or as directed by a reptile veterinarian

Use only supplements formulated for reptiles. Over-supplementation can be harmful, so follow guidelines closely. Vegetation While insect prey is essential, Jackson’s chameleons may occasionally nibble on soft leaves or flowers. Offer small amounts of safe plant material for dietary enrichment:

Mixed dark leafy greens
Hibiscus leaves or flowers
Ficus leaves (from pesticide-free sources)

Place leaves in a shallow bowl or allow them to hang naturally on branches. Remove uneaten vegetation after four hours to maintain enclosure hygiene. Hydration Jackson’s chameleons do not drink from bowls. Instead, they hydrate by licking water droplets from leaves and other surfaces.

Mist the enclosure at least twice per day
Consider using a drip system, especially in dry climates or large enclosures
A basic drip setup can include a clean cup with a small hole in the bottom and an ice cube inside, allowing water to drip slowly over time

Ensure leaves and climbing surfaces remain accessible for drinking after each misting. Never rely solely on a water bowl. Inadequate hydration can lead to lethargy, loss of appetite, and shedding issues. Feeding safety

Avoid wild-caught insects, which may carry parasites or pesticide residue
Observe your chameleon during feeding to ensure prey is being consumed
Keep feeder insects in species-specific enclosures with proper diet and hygiene

When to see a vet

In addition to regularly scheduled appointments, contact your reptile veterinarian if you notice the following signs:

Hiding more than usual, or lying at the bottom of terrarium
Eating or drinking less; weight loss
Swollen joints or reluctance to move
Swollen/closed eyes or discharge from the eyes, nose or mouth
Shedding problems; discolored skin
Runny droppings for more than two days
Decreased frequency of droppings
New or sudden missing toenails
For females- difficulty laying an egg AKA egg binding

Go to “find a vet” on arav.org for help finding a reptile veterinarian in your area.

NOTE: Most, if not all, reptiles carry Salmonella bacteria in their intestinal tract and intermittently or continuously shed these bacteria in their feces, so they are unsuitable pets for very young children and those with compromised immune systems. Good hygiene must always be practiced around all reptiles, and hands should be washed before and after interacting with reptiles.

SHOPPING CHECKLIST

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Tall, well-ventilated terrarium-style or screened enclosure sized 16 x 16 x 30" or larger for a juvenile chameleon (under 8mo old)
Adults need larger enclosures that are at minimum 24”x24”x48” (61x61x122cm)
Screened lid, if applicable
UVB bulb and fixture
Day basking bulb and fixtures
Habitat thermometers (2) and a hygrometer
Spray bottle, mister or automatic fogger
Dripper and shallow dish
Reptile carpet or reptile-safe substrate
Branches/plants
Food dish
Crickets, dubia roaches, superworms and hornworms
Calcium powder
Multivitamin powder

Ready to learn more?

This guide is a great starting place, but we encourage you to do more research on the individual species that you are keeping so that you can be as successful as possible with your aquarium! Related guides:

Reptile & Amphibian Heating & Lighting
Setting Up a Reptile or Amphibian Habitat
Understanding Zoonotic Disease
Feeder Insect Care & Setup

FAQs

How often should I feed my Jackson’s chameleon?
Juveniles should be fed once or twice per day. Adults typically eat every other day. Adjust feeding frequency based on your chameleon’s weight, appetite, and behavior.

What is the best way to hydrate a Jackson’s chameleon?
Chameleons do not drink from standing water. They lick water droplets from leaves, branches, and enclosure surfaces. Mist the habitat at least twice a day, or use a drip system to ensure consistent access to drinkable moisture.

Can I use a water bowl for my chameleon?
No. Jackson’s chameleons do not recognize bowls as a water source. Always provide water through misting or dripping onto leaves and climbing surfaces.

Do Jackson’s chameleons need UVB lighting?
Yes. UVB light is essential for calcium metabolism and vitamin D3 production. Use a low- to moderate-intensity UVB bulb and replace it every 6 to 12 months, depending on the manufacturer’s instructions.

Can I house more than one chameleon in the same enclosure?
No. Jackson’s chameleons are highly territorial and must be housed alone. Keeping two together, even for short periods, can result in serious stress or physical conflict.

Why is my chameleon changing color?
Color changes in Jackson’s chameleons are influenced by mood, temperature, and behavior. Darker colors may indicate stress or a cold environment. Brighter or more intense colors may signal excitement, alertness, or a territorial display.

What humidity level is ideal for Jackson’s chameleons?
Maintain humidity between 50 and 80 percent, depending on your local environment. Use a digital hygrometer and adjust with regular misting or an automatic fogger.

What should I do if my chameleon stops eating?
First, check that temperatures, humidity, lighting, and hydration are within proper ranges. If all conditions are correct, try offering smaller prey or a different insect species. If appetite does not return within several days, consult a veterinarian.

How much handling is too much?
Jackson’s chameleons should be handled minimally, if at all. Occasional handling for enclosure cleaning or brief inspection is acceptable, but frequent or prolonged interaction can cause stress and compromise health.